Willy Chavarría’s Oaxaca-inspired huaraches stoke controversy

When Chicano fashion designer Willy Chavarría first devised his latest shoe drop — a chunky sneaker topped with the sleek, black leather weave of artisanal Mexican huaraches — he meant to honor his roots.

Instead, it seems he stepped on some toes.

The designer unveiled his Oaxaca Slip On with Adidas at the Art Museum in Puerto Rico last weekend. Since then, many have taken to social media to call out the brand for cultural appropriation — citing everything from the use of the name “Oaxaca,” to the fact that the shoes aren’t even made in Mexico, but evidently manufactured in China.

The backlash raised questions about who profits from Mexican and Indigenous culture and who gets left out. Though the design draws from traditional huaraches made in the Indigenous communities of Oaxaca, critics say there was no credit or benefit for the people keeping that craft alive; it feels like another case of a global brand taking without giving back.

The social media commentary has been both comical and critical, with one Instagram user commenting, “Nah I’ll still rock my original huaraches with tire sole from Sahuayo, Michoacán,” and another writing, “No way they gentrified huaraches now.” (The original post from Chavarría’s official Instagram page has since been taken down.)

Some also took umbrage with the decision to debut the shoe in Puerto Rico, far from the regions in Mexico where the footwear originates. For many, it underscored the lack of connection and engagement with the people most tied to huarache-making traditions.

Huaraches have long been a staple in Mexican communities, often handmade by artisans using traditional materials like leather and recycled rubber soles. The style has evolved over time, but its roots remain deeply local and community-based.

The backlash isn’t just about cultural appropriation, but misrepresentation. Content creator Vivian Fabiola pointed out that while the shoe is labeled “Oaxaca,” its huarache design appears to be more closely tied to the state of Michoacán. Traditionally, artisans handcraft only a few pairs a day, rather than producing them in mass quantities.

Felicia Montes is a Chicana Indigenous artist, activist and assistant professor of Chicanx/Latinx Arts and Social Practice at Cal State Long Beach. She also runs an online mercado featuring handmade goods rooted in Indigenous tradition.

“Huaraches were an ancient thing, but people are still creating them today,” said Montes. “I think Willy’s biggest issue around it is not honoring or working with the communities it comes from, even if he has Mexican ancestry.”

For her, true homage requires collaboration, credit, and compensation — not just aesthetic borrowing.

Marciel Perez, who owns Mr. Hammer Shoes, has been selling huaraches and vaquero fashion at Plaza Mexico for over 30 years. For him, the thought of selling hybrid sneaker-huaraches feels inauthentic.

“I remember when I first started selling huaraches at the swap meets, there was something nice about the smell of the leather. There still is,” he said. “But selling this type of shoe online seems far from its origins.”

Now, the Oaxaca government is reportedly preparing legal action against Adidas and Willy Chavarría over the Oaxaca Slip On, which features elements of traditional Yalalteco huaraches. Lawmakers say the design may lack proper authorization from Yalálag artisans and accuse the brand of cultural appropriation. Officials have also raised concerns about the unauthorized use of the name “Oaxaca.”

While the controversy touches on complex questions of identity, fashion and representation, Montes believes it’s important to examine what being “seen” in elite spaces really means for marginalized communities.

“I get it, especially in the fashion world, that’s the place people want to make it. And sure, we’re being seen. But seen how? And seen by whom?” she asked.

“Our communities are under attack right now, so there’s a disconnect. Just because we’re being represented on a runway, does that mean anything will actually change?”

Chavarría and his team have not yet responded to a request for a comment on this story.